Slogging

Art working on the Gradient Tower

One of the reasons we like to stay ahead of the snow for the SnowNet project is that it makes our work harder. Here’s how: in summer and fall we have to carry everything out to the sites that we run on our backs. That includes batteries, iron form stakes, tools, metal struts, and so on. The tundra is pretty spongy to walk in general, and when new snow is added on top, we end up SLOGGING. That is where for each step we take it feels like we sink in about as far as our knees. Every step it feels like we are trying to pull our feet out of soggy quicksand. Add a 70 lb. pack and it can get pretty tiring and makes walking around a chore.

Returning from a day of slogging

So it is not surprising that this trip we were dreading the long walk up to the snow fence. The snow fence is about 2 miles from where we can park the truck. . . two miles of slogging. . . .with batteries and other equipment. Art and I loaded our packs with the equipment and gear and headed off. The weather was snowing and foggy. We could only see about 100 feet in any direction. Anyway we walked (I should say slogged) for what seemed like hours across the soggy, snow-covered tundra, and still the fence had not materialized. Where could it be? After all, it is almost 8 feet high and more than 100 feet long. It is hard to lose. Finally we stopped. I shed my pack and headed further up the valley, reasoning that we probably had not gone far enough. Sure enough, after about a quarter mile, the fence emerged from the fog. We re-shouldered our packs and continued on. That is the problem with slogging…..distances become relative with time slowing down as the effort gets harder.

Matthew stands in the fog and snow.

The snow and fog, however, had one pleasant benefit. It was wonderfully still out on the tundra. So still, in fact, we heard the wing beats of a raven long before the bird appeared through the fog and flew by us.

~ Matthew Sturm

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Transitions

Brooks Range


It doesn’t take long for things to change this time of the year, so that explains our frantic pace to complete what we need to finish in the remaining warm time we have. We prepared our Imnavait Creek site for the winter and we have been mapping out our forthcoming spring campaign that promises to be our most widespread and intensive snow measurement effort yet.

Toolik Lake

Snow has already arrived at Toolik Camp, where we spend our evenings, get wonderful morning and evening meals, contact our families, sleep, and prepare for tomorrow’s work. We’ve seen snow before in our early SnowNet September visits, but never this deep this early. Six inches of snow veneer terrain that was mostly green weeks ago. Trucks traveling on the Dalton Highway are again using chains to transit nearby Atigun pass through the Brooks Range to our south. A flurry of construction activity that includes bridge replacements and a brand new bridge has just been finished farther up the Dalton and construction crews are preparing for a new life back at home after working long summer days on the North Slope. Construction crews we met were in high spirits and eager to share their summer experiences and plans for the coming weeks after the job ends.

Musk Ox

At Toolik we are just above the snow line – the lower elevations just 10 miles to the north remain snow free for now all the way to the coast. Will the snow stay here or will it melt off? Warmer south-facing slopes are becoming exposed, but they won’t stay that way long. The north slopes might be under snow from now until next May or June. The warm season is nearly over everywhere and it seems most everything is on the move. Large formations of geese dot the sky while ducks make use of lakes and ponds that remain ice free for now. Tomorrow we head south ourselves, eager to get home and savor the last warm days of this year.

~ Chris Hiemstra

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Winter in August

Overview of the Barrow SnowNet site

As I sloshed through the standing water between tundra polygons, I thought about how this place would look in two months. Four of us on the SnowNet team were in Barrow doing the annual maintenance on the instrument site. While the tundra world around us was green, wet, and alive with birds and bright spots of colored flowers, in a scant two months it would be cold, white and frozen. The birds would be gone, and the flowers, or what was left of them, would be buried under 6” of snow. As rain soaked my hair and water splashed over the top of my rubber boots, I found myself looking forward to winter, when the only liquid water would be found in the sink in our warm Quonset Hut.

Soggy Crew

Winter can be harsh on electronic equipment several miles out on the tundra. Cables that are supple and bendable in 40°F weather will snap like Styrofoam when it is -40°F. Tasks like tightening a bolt that can be done in mere seconds in daylight with warm bare hands can be almost impossible in the dark in the narrow beam of a headlight where the cold wind renders fingers un-useable in minutes. Not surprisingly, we have generally found it best to perform a thorough renovation of our instruments in summer. But that means getting wet, and a long slog over the tundra carrying heavy batteries and other equipment.

Chipping Ice

This year the big surprise was the solid-state snow water equivalent gauge (SSSWE). This gauge, which consists of nine aluminum panels, each 3 by 3 feet, weighs the snow that covers it in winter. Beneath the aluminum plates is a plywood and insulation base designed to keep the tundra from thawing and having the whole affair go out of level. However, this year, the insulation and a cold spring resulted in the formation of segregation ice, a common feature in permafrost, but a bad thing under a SSSWE. Segregation ice forms when ground water migrates to a freezing front. Typically this freezing front is at the bottom of the active layer, but in our case it was at the bottom og the insulation. At the freezing front, a layer of black ice forms and thickens. In our case, it seems to have grown several inches thick over the past 2 years, heaving up the SSSWE. The solution to the problem was to pick-axe the ice to pieces and then shovel up the ice cubes and mud.

Barge and Welcome Sign

We weren’t the only ones in Barrow hurrying to get ready for winter in August. Barges were coming in with the annual supplies for the town, as well as staging equipment for a major drilling campaign this winter. It has been in the news that Shell Oil will be drilling for oil and gas in the Chukchi Sea off of Barrow in the future, but this is a different campaign. Gas fields have been known, and utilized by Barrow, since the late 1940s. Gas from a series of wells out on the tundra south of town supply the fuel for heating and electrical generation. But with growth has come higher demands for fuel. The existing gas wells are no longer sufficient to supply the need. This winter several more wells will be drilled. This is an enormous undertaking requiring tons of gear, most of which has been coming in from Prudhoe Bay. We were told that 30 barge-loads would be needed before all the required equipment is on the beach at Barrow.

Snow fence tower

We finished our maintenance work by reconstructing the towers we have near the Cakeater snow fence. This fence creates a drift that can be almost 15 feet deep. The towers hold sonic sounders that measure the snow depth as the drift builds up. Each tower is guyed out using ¼” steel cable. The weight of the snow on these cables during the winter can ( and has) snapped the welds on the towers. As long as the towers are encased in snow, they are fine and won’t fall down, but once the snow melts (in late-July) the towers become wobbly and unstable. We have to re-cable them and re-level them so they are vertical. The area where this thick drift sits for 10 months of the year is a bad place for plants. They get crushed by the weight of the snow, flooded by the snow melt, and deprived of sunlight for much of the summer. Almost nothing can grow under those conditions….just some water-tolerant mosses. The end product after 20 years of enormous winter drifts is a mucky bog and ponds next to the fence.

Snow on the ground still in late June…..new snow in late-August: winter is long in Barrow. No wonder we are thinking about winter in August.

Matthew Sturm

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